Christchurch, the home of legends

Published : Jan 18, 2003 00:00 IST

S. DINAKAR

December 30. It's time to say goodbye to Napier, and we return to the lovely South Islands, more precisely to Christchurch. This Canterbury city is the heartland of cricket in New Zealand, and is also the home of cricket legends Sir Richard Hadlee and Martin Crowe. Interestingly, Christchurch, like so many other places in New Zealand, has roads named after Indian cities. The `Madras Street' is one of them although, the Tamil Nadu capital is now called Chennai back home. It's New Year time in Christchurch and the celebrations have already begun. The Indian team, meanwhile, arrives in Christchurch. Can it turn over a new leaf in 2003?

December 31. The Kiwis do know how to celebrate the coming in of the fresh year. The city square housing the imposing Church, has thousands of people screaming with delight as the clock strikes 12. A loud roar goes up in the gathering, greetings are exchanged, and a rock band starts playing vibrant music. People gather around the famous `Bridge of Rememberence', and it's the busiest night for Christchurch taxis. This is also one of the rare nights, when we see cops screening people making their way to the City square. Generally, the common man is left untouched by the police, but these are days when even New Zealand has to be careful. Otherwise, this country can be termed the `arm chair' of the world. Even as the rest of the world is rocked by violence and terrorism, the people of this laidback, serene and peaceful country, watch the happenings on television. Life moves at a different pace in New Zealand.

January 1. It's the first day of the New Year and most of the shops are closed in Christchurch, people have not yet recovered from the hangover of the New Year party. The Indian cricket side had also seen the ushering in of the New Year from the city square, a stone's throw away from The Heritage, the team hotel. It has been a rough tour so far for them, but their spirits would have been surely been lifted by the magic in the air that a New Year invariably brings along with it. One sees little evidence of this though at the Jade Stadium where Sourav Ganguly's men suffer yet another humiliating defeat It is a rather disappointing crowd too, with the Jade Stadium, barely half full that explains, the rapidly declining popularity of the Indian side in New Zealand. Just about everybody feels let down, this includes the Kiwi supporters too, that the Indians have not even managed to put up a fight.

January 2. `Where are you off to next,' the man at the reception in Holiday Inn asks us and when he hears the reply, he is quick with his words. `Queenstown, it is the most beautiful place in the World. You will not feel like coming back.' Then, the lady at the coffee shop in the Christchurch airport says, `You know, people from Switzerland come to holiday at this place, it's that beautiful.'' Even as the aircraft zooms over the mountains and the lakes, we know we are in very special surroundings. Queenstown is what you would call a paradise on planet earth, with stunning scenery all around. Queenstown has the formidable Lake Wakatipu, stretching as far as the eyes can see, in the centre of it, surrounded by mountains, some of which are snow capped, even at this point of the year. It is a town with very interesting history, and a very European feel. William Rees, an European settler, and his business partner Nicholas Von Tunzelman tossed a coin to choose which side of the lake Wakatipu they would settle in. Rees took the Queenstown side, and when gold was discovered here in 1862, triggering a gold rush, he became a very rich man. Take a ride in Jet boat and it takes you past lakeside homes to the deep turquoise waters of the Kawarau River, and then into the gold rich narrow shallow waters of the Shotover river, when even now, there have been those lucky few who have stumbled on deposits of gold. The one-hour, 43-km journey is a unique, magical experience. You can spot beach-like sand in the middle and by the side of the river, and the air is so fresh. Incidentally, the Kawaru Jet is the first commercial jetboat operator, established in 1960 by two brothers — Alan and Harold Melhop. The Shotover Jet, an exciting jet boat ride, is the only one permitted to operate in the spectacular Shotover River Canyons, where, we can see nature in all its glory. The jetboat travels at a sizzling speed, even when making its way through the narrow canyons, but all the precautions are taken. The Dart River, one of the world's most untouched and scenic wilderness areas, where much of the filming of the blockbuster `The Lord of the Rings' was done, is just 45 minutes from Queenstown.

January 3. The teams have practice at the lovely Queenstown events centre ground, that has the mountains forming a spectacular backdrop. The little venue is so close to the Queenstown airport that we see aircraft and helicopters landing and taking off at regular intervals. The Indian team has a battle on its hands the next day. There are dark clouds forming around and the threat of a rain is distinct. On Thursday, the Indians take a break to visit one of the nearby snow clad mountains in a helicopter. We don't miss the chance to take a ride in the cable car, up mount Gondola to the Skyline restaurant. It is a thrilling journey and the view from the top is spectacular, Lake Wakitapu, the houses on the hill, and the faraway mountains appearing even more beautiful. Meanwhile, kids hurtle round a winding downhill track and the Skyline Luge is indeed a real fun. There is an open `car' ride further up the mountains for those who are barve at heart. This is also a spot where skydiving and bungee jumping are highly popular and on a clear day we can spot a lot of adventure seekers taking their turn at these adventure sport. In Queenstown, a ride in TSS Earnslaw, the vintage steamship is well worth its value. Built in 1912, just one year after the famous `Titanic' was constructed, TSS Earnslaw, is steeped in history, journeying in the 84km Lake Wakatipu, the second longest in New Zealand. Called the `Lady of the Lake', Earnslaw has the reputation of being one of the last remaining coal-passenger-carrying vessels operating in the Southern hemisphere. In its early days, it used to carry cattle and sheep on its decks. Now, with times changing, it carries passengers on scheduled excursions. The steamship ferries passengers to the picturesque Walter Peak High Country Farm. It is a two-hour journey, and we see mountains alongside the lake, and also spot little waterfalls. Nature has been kind to Queenstown.

January 4. This is a special day in the history of the holiday resort. Queenstown is hosting its first ODI and all roads lead to Queenstown Events Centre. There is a carnival atmosphere inside the ground, and the little, colourful tents, circling the oval, give this pretty venue a `Village Fair' atmosphere. Unfortunately, the contest fizzles out into a one-sided duel, yet again, with the Indians hardly putting up any resistance. In the evening, we see rainbow around the mountains, sunlight bouncing off the mountain-top, yet all this has failed to inspire the Indians. The rain too has stayed away.

January 5. Queenstown has some wonderful shops, and restaurants and among them is `Hard Rock Caf�' owned by some of the most popular Hollywood stars. This is holiday time in New Zealand and the restaurants and bars are full in Queenstown, quite the most popular tourist destination. For us the time has come to leave this magnificent town, and head to Wellington. At the Airport we find a vintage 1914 Delage French car, and we do leave Queenstown with memories that will last long.

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