Of saffron, souks and sun — Women’s T20 World Cup’s UAE sojourn
Dubai is the land of potentially the smoothest roads the Diary has ever travelled on, where a warm sun hugs your face and never lets you go.
Published : Oct 08, 2024 12:54 IST , Dubai - 4 MINS READ
Sensory feast: Scarlet Iranian saffron and the aromas of the choicest spices enveloped the bustling souks. | Photo Credit: Lavanya Lakshmi Narayanan
Preparations for a three-week assignment in the United Arab Emirates often come with numerous warnings about the heat and humidity. As someone born and raised in Chennai — very familiar with the unforgiving sun and stickiness of the coastal city — the Diary was quite amused by these warnings, confident it would feel much like home.
And for the first week, that confidence held. The Diary was better off than the poor folks from cooler regions, particularly the Europeans in the press box and on the field. However, nothing could prepare one for the microwave-like heat that wafted through the windows of the Emirates aircraft on landing in Dubai.
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Dubai is the land of potentially the smoothest roads the Diary has ever travelled on, where a warm sun hugs your face and never lets you go, and luxury cars zoom around for hire. The Diary’s driver to the Airbnb was a middle-aged gentleman originally from Balochistan, Pakistan. “ Madam, aap koi match dekhne aaye ho? Kaun khel raha hai yahan ab? (Madam, are you here to watch a game? Who’s playing?),“ he asked when the Diary mentioned travelling for sport. There were no banners or promotional paraphernalia in sight. You couldn’t tell that the city was hosting 10 of the world’s best teams.
Friendly gesture: The ICC officials were kind enough to open their boardroom — where some of the sport’s biggest decisions have likely been made — for the present journalists. | Photo Credit: Lavanya Lakshmi Narayanan
“Women’s World Cup? Pakistan bhi hai usmein? (Pakistan is playing too?)“ came his next question. A cricket romantic who stopped watching after mercurial Pakistan all-rounder Shahid Afridi retired, he perked up upon hearing that a player from his province — Diana Baig — was in Dubai. When he learnt ticket prices started as low as AED 5, he immediately called his wife. “Gul jaan, shall we take the girls to the cricket this weekend?” he proposed. The rest of the trip passed with the fast motorways of Dubai set against the backdrop of a sweet picnic-planning endeavour.
The Diary’s view from ‘home’ included the Dubai Stadium on the right and a sprawling golf village on the left — soon to be visited by members of the Australian women’s cricket team. Practice sessions were at the ICC Headquarters, a kilometre away in the other direction. The first cricket action on the schedule was a warm-up game against South Africa, with both teams running on half a tank of gas. The slow, gripping wickets at the practice venues hinted at what was to come.
Sumptuous meal: A shawarma was the first outdoor meal after days of media room food and home-cooked meals, modestly prepared to save money. | Photo Credit: Lavanya Lakshmi Narayanan
The Diary had to grudgingly miss the tournament opener in Sharjah as India’s training and press meet coincided with the match in Dubai. The ICC officials were kind enough to open their boardroom — where some of the sport’s biggest decisions have likely been made — for the present journalists. Arabian wraps and fresh fruit juices were on offer.
All that glitters is gold: Some shockingly garish jewellery filled the gold markets at the souks. | Photo Credit: Lavanya Lakshmi Narayanan
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India’s loss to New Zealand in its first group game raised the stakes for the clash against Pakistan. A crowd of nearly 16,000 flocked to Dubai on a hot Sunday afternoon to watch the continental rivals (though not much of a rivalry on the field) face off. A Pakistani journalist, recording his piece to camera in the stadium’s expansive parking lot, remarked, “It’s quite a no-contest; India is way ahead.” “ Arey, yeh kaise bol rahe ho paaji, dekhte jaao (How can you say that, brother? Just wait and watch),“ countered a young man walking past.
Fatima Sana and her team seemed to embody that sentiment as they ran India close, ensuring anxiety at every moment in the chase. India eventually steadied the ship, earning its first points of the tournament. It was also the 100th T20I played at the venue, and the Emirates Cricket Board passed around red velvet cupcakes to mark the occasion.
City that never sleeps: The Diary’s view at ‘home’ has the Dubai Stadium on the right and an expansive golf village on the left. | Photo Credit: Lavanya Lakshmi Narayanan
The Diary, who finally met colleagues covering the women’s game — people previously only seen on Zoom during press conferences — rounded off the week with an excursion to one of the city’s oldest quarters, the souks.
The souks were a sensory feast. Scarlet Iranian saffron and the aromas of the choicest spices enveloped the air, while some shockingly garish jewellery filled the gold markets. Speaking Malayalam proved to be a bonus, helping secure better deals in most shops — though not in the jewellery stores. The souks had everything from ornate hijabs crafted in gold to extravagant boots and statement pieces, offering something for everyone. After exploring, the Diary found a tiny café with over 70 items on the menu. A shawarma was the first outdoor meal after days of media room food and home-cooked meals, modestly prepared to save money.
The Diary finally made it to Sharjah to watch England beat South Africa. Sharjah is a delightful venue — small and intimate, with an open press box a stone’s throw from the field. The stands are so compact that surrounding buildings offer excellent views without a ticket. Family members of the England team made up most of the sparse audience and were rewarded with a win.