Deepu Mallesh, India’s flagbearer in sport climbing, aims to scale peak

Despite no governing body and lack of climbing venues, the national record holder is speed climbing is undettered in pursuing the sport.

Mallesh holds the national record in speed climbing at 5.98s, which he recorded at the IFSC Climbing World Cup 2023. | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

One of the most prominent names in the field of sport climbing in India is Deepu Mallesh. Having started climbing at a young age of 12, he now stands 81st in the world rankings, the highest for an Indian. Last month, he created a new National record in speed climbing (5.98s) at the IFSC Climbing World Cup in Jakarta, 2023.

“I never intended to start climbing and pursue it professionally,” Deepu told  Sportstar. “However, I have now gained lots of experience and have improved steadily in the sport.

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“My aim now is to bring (more focus) on climbing in our country and inspire and push the younger generation,” the 25-year-old added.

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The onset of COVID-19 was extremely difficult for Deepu. Due to the restrictions and lockdowns around the world, no competitions were being held.

“The pandemic affected the whole sports structure and it was a crucial point in my life because I considered dropping climbing completely.”

But he took part in the trials for the Asian Games, which were held in March 2022, after his friends pushed him to.

“I prepared for two weeks and somehow managed to grab fourth position. I was not selected but it made me think ‘even with limited practice if I can achieve this feat, I can definitely do much better’”. That spirit carried him to the record in Jakarta.

However, Deepu admitted that being a climber comes with its challenges.

“For a long time, we did not have the infrastructure, equipment, and other facilities like the big countries. Initially, I used my school canvas shoes for climbing.”

There being no separate governing body for climbing in India – the sport comes under Indian Mountaineering Foundation – did not help, said Deepu, making it very difficult to participate in international events. Deepu has to take care of his travel, look out for sponsors and register for competitions all by himself.

But Deepu remains undeterred and is eager to go places. “Deepu’s progress is excellent at this point,” says his coach Shiva, who is also his role model. “He has lowered his time from 6.4s to 5.9s. There is no burden of big expectations on him from my end. Just the target in 5.8s... which he will hopefully achieve.”